RESTAURANT REVIEWS

SEA FOOD, EAT IT

The finest prawns plucked straight from the sea. It doesn't get any better

Review by Ron Mackenna - The Herald Magazine - October 2002

Where were we at 5pm? We're not sure.

We think we were puffing up a bill overlooking the sea lock at Crinan when, and I swear this is true, Jimmy McGregor came bounding around the corner. Now some might say "so what?" But when you're on your first-ever family hill-walking expedition and television's most famous woolly warrior comes bursting out of the undergrowth, all knee-high socks and beaming grin, that is something.

Anyway, 5pm becomes the topic of conversation when the enormous, and I mean enormous, bowl of big pink Scottish prawns hoves into view at dinner later that night. You could hear a pin drop as chatting couples dotted around the Crinan Hotel's dining room swivel to watch their progress.

To avoid confusion I'll tell you now that these magnificent prawns are not even distantly related to the wishy-washy, tasteless rubbish. routinely served up at tables all over the land. Their thick shells testify to a decent lifespan beneath the cold waters of the Sound of Jura and inside is sweet white meat the size of the average podgy finger. Boy, they were sweet. Incredibly so. In fact I haven't tasted prawns that good since my dad used to bring buckshee bags of them home from his fishermen mates 30 years ago. Ah, the nostalgia.

Oh, yes 5pm? Well, as the menu boasts, that is when our prawns were landed on the pier outside the hotel. We missed it. I could stop right here, because the prawns alone justify the expensive trip to darkest mid-Argyll, but that would be to overlook the idiosyncratic delights of Crinan. If you've never been to see James Bennie's spectacular canal set amid the most stunning scenery in Scotland, then go.

The best way to view it is while sipping drinks in the stunning bar. Perched atop the Crinan Hotel, the glass eyrie peers down on the yachts in the canal basin, the loch and the white canal houses (occupied by the hotel chef; the hotel owner's mum and until recently the hotel staff). Sure, there's no price list and Aiden, our barman, isn't too sure how much the drinks are, but with regulars like Andrew Lloyd Webber and Princess Anne I don't suppose many complain. In the summer there's a roof-type dining room too, but in late September it's downstairs to the Westward which is overdue a facelift. Not that the decor, or the staffs strange denim outfits detract from the meal.

The Crinan Hotel is known for two things: its seafood and its owner Nick Ryan. As virtually every page of the hotel website hints that Mr Ryan will be hanging about the hotel dispensing ripping yarns of his days at sea we've been keeping a weather eye open for him. Sadly, he's away. We have better luck with the seafood. Our starters consist of grilled red mullet and langoustine with confit tomato and saffron vinaigrette and a caramelised fennel veloute (yes, soup). Both are first rate. Next up is a fish course of smoked wild salmon (harder to tell the difference from farmed when it's smoked, but it's in the texture) and then it is onto those prawns. Debs has ordered saddle of Argyll venison, celeriac and a salsify, raspberry and chocolate sauce. The venison has that dark, gamey flavour which signifies a good hanging while the sauce is more chocolate than raspberry.

Then it's off to the lounge to await the slowly baking desserts. There we discover the other topic of conversation that night: the bitter chocolate souffle. No less than two smiling strangers ask us if we have ordered it. We have.

It is a second sensation: light and fragrant on top descending into warm, gooey gobs of chocolate the deeper you delve. Our other dessert, Victoria Plum Clafoutis, a sweet quiche, while extremely good is truly overshadowed by it

If you're not staying on the Hotel's inclusive rates then dinner at the Crinan Hotel can be expensive, but you're paying for the setting and sensational food. And don't forget you can always pop down to the pier at 5pm to watch your dinner being unloaded. Unless, of course, you want to lurk in the undergrowth on the off-chance of spotting Mr McGregor out practising for his next television series.

THE CRINAN HOTEL
Crinan, by Lochgilphead, Argyll (Tel: 01546 830261)
Winter hours Dinner, 7-8.30pm
Price Three-course dinner, £42.50
Vegetarian Typically one starter, main courses to order
Herald Rating 8.5/10